A stall at the Sahaflar book bazaar stacked with maps and guidebooks

Practical Istanbul

Money, weather, getting around and the small things that make a first visit easier.

Everything below is what we tell friends before they arrive. If something here is out of date, message us and we will fix it.

Money

The currency is the Turkish lira. Cards work almost everywhere, including taxis and most market stalls, but carry some cash for tea, small bakeries and the odd ferry. Change money at a döviz office rather than the airport, and never in the street.

Weather and when to come

April to early June and September to early November are the best months to walk. July and August are hot and busy. Winter is grey and quiet, and the city is at its most beautiful in the rain, if you do not mind getting wet.

Getting around

Buy an Istanbulkart at any metro station and load it with a few hundred lira. It works on the tram, metro, funicular, bus and the ferries, and the ferries are the best value sightseeing in Europe. For taxis, use the BiTaksi or Uber app so the route and the fare are recorded.

What to wear

Comfortable shoes matter more than anything else, because the old city is cobbled and hilly. To enter a working mosque, women cover their hair and everyone covers shoulders and knees. Scarves are lent at the door if you forget, and we carry spares.

Sights that close

Several of the major sights close one day a week, and the days move. Topkapı Palace closes on Tuesdays and the Grand Bazaar closes on Sundays. Others change with the season or with restoration work. Tell us your dates and we build the route around what is actually open.

Maps

We keep a short set of maps for the Grand Bazaar and the tram and metro network on our maps page.

Ready when you are

Book a date, or just ask us a question

Tours with a calendar can be booked on the spot. Anything private, or anything you are not sure about, gets a written answer from Salih.

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